Visit The Ezulwini Valley in Eswatini (Swaziland)

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A nice hike, a cute behive hut and my first warthog!

Nestled in the heart of Eswatini, the Ezulwini Valley—often called the “Valley of Heaven”—is a place of breathtaking beauty, rich culture, and vibrant landscapes.

Yet, with so much to see and experience, visitors often wonder how to make the most of their time in this magical valley. What are the must-see spots, and when is the best time to go?

Fortunately, there’s a way to uncover the valley’s true charm, whether you’re a nature lover, a culture enthusiast, or simply seeking a peaceful retreat. From serene nature reserves to cultural landmarks, the Ezulwini valley, Swaziland offers an unforgettable experience for every type of traveller.

In this article, we’ll guide you through the best things to see and do in Ezulwini Valley, share insider tips on when to visit, and help you capture the spirit of Eswatini. Get ready to explore the Valley of Heaven like a local!


After leaving Kruger we headed on to the South African, Eswatini (Swaziland) border. After other African borders in the west, I was stunned at how easy this was. We literally just walked into the South African departures, got stamped, walked over no mans land to the Swaziland arrivals, got stamped again and were done. It was maybe 10 minutes. After spending most of the day on borders between Mali and Guinea or Morocco and Mauritania, this was an absolute breeze.

Update: Swaziland is now called the Kingdom of Eswatini. If I accidently call it Swaziland, please forgive me.

Crossing the border from South Africa to Eswatini
Crossing the border from South Africa to Eswatini

What is The Ezulwini Valley In Eswatini?

Our ultimate destination in Swaziland was the Ezulwini Valley just south of the capital Mbabane. Ezulwini literally means Valley Of Heaven. The valley is around 30km long and has a number of notable wildlife sanctuaries however the Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary is the primary one. It covers over 4,500-hectares and offers accommodation, hiking trails and of course wildlife viewing. With the absence of any real large predators you can walk and hike a lot of that area.

Climbing into the mountains showcased the stunning scenery that is Swaziland and was a refreshing change from the heat of Kruger. I had not noticed the heat. It had been warm for sure, however we had various members of our group complaining about it so I’m assuming it was actually pretty hot. Keeping in mind they were English!

The name ‘Mlilwane’ (‘Little Fire’ in siSwati) was given to the area after fires that were started by lightning strikes on the Mlilwane Hill.


Accommodation In And Around Mlilwane Game Sanctuary

Camping, self catering huts and cottages are all available at Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary. We stayed at the Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary campsite which also has these very cute beehive style bungalows and a large very well equipped common area and kitchen.

You can choose a simple camp site, the beehives, twin or double rooms.

Beehive shaped huts at Mlilwane Camp Ground Eswatini
Beehive shaped huts at Mlilwane Camp Ground Eswatini

Mlilwane National Park Rest Camp (Prices at Nov 2024)

  • Beehive Villages – twin share Sleeps 2 From 610 ZAR
  • Beehive Village – designed for families. Sleeps 4 From 610 ZAR
  • Shonalanga Family Cottage Sleeps 6 From 685 ZAR
  • Lontweni Self-catering Rondavels for 2-3 people. Sleeps 3 From 660 ZAR
  • Lontweni Self-catering Rondavels for 1-2 people. Sleeps 2 From 660 ZAR
  • Camping sites From 155 ZAR

Other Accommodation Around Mlilwane National Park

There are now quite a few options in the area. Some are more upscale and there are even a few with swimming pools. As most of the accommodation in the area is there to service the national park, you will be able to find something that suits your budget and that is as close as you might like. Most of these can organise day trips or transport to and from the park if required.

I’ve heard great things about Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary accommodation. They also do biking trips, hiking and have a pool that overlooks the hippo pool.

 


Activites In Mlilwane National Park Ezulwini

Hiking Trails

As opposed to Kruger this sanctuary has no big predators, with the exception of crocodiles, so you find lots of varying types of deer and antelope along with Zebra’s roaming free. So free in fact that Anna walked out of her hut and almost collided with a zebra on the way to the loo one night.

There are multiple hiking and walking trails that aren’t to difficult. We spend a lovely morning trekking around the park on the Hippo trail and through the woodlands with Lorraine our guide identifying species of plants and animals.

Hiking the very easy Hippo trail in Mlilwane Game Sanctuary
Hiking the very easy, but very beautiful Hippo trail in Mlilwane Game Sanctuary

Wildlife Spotting In Mlilane Game Sanctuary

While there are no “Big” game to speak of there is a lot you may see. Zebra’s are everywhere, we saw a variety of antelopes, one snake, lots of birdlife and even warthogs.

Somehow or other in the first two days we’d seen no warthogs at all. The day we left we are all up early and heading to breaky only to see about 40 of them! They were like dogs. They were everywhere. I’d never seen one before and I was surprised how much they range in size. I thought they would be the size of a domestic pig but they are much smaller, much hairier and not quite as aggressive as a normal pig can be.

A warthog in Mlilwane Game Sanctuary Eswatini
A warthog in Mlilwane Game Sanctuary Eswatini
One of the large antelope we saw in Ezulwini
One of the large antelope we saw in Ezulwini
Zebras in Mlilwane National Park stalking me.
Zebras in Mlilwane National Park stalking me. This one followed me for maybe an hour. It was kind of cool actually. He wouldn’t come too close but kept about 2-3 meters behind me.

Ezulwini Farmers Market

The local farmers market and craft market is open on the second Saturday of each month and is a great place for handicrafts for yourself or gifts.

You can get more info from their Instagram Page to check if you will be in the area when it happens. They have everything from soaps to leather goods to local jams and of course the traditional beaded jewellery.

Ezulwini Farmers Market goods
A few things available at Ezulwini Farmers Markets

White Water Rafting In Ezulwini

Swazi Trails do adventure day tours including white water rafting. Their website is down at the moment, but you can find them on Instagram or Facebook.

They also do:

  • Caving
  • Cycling Tours
  • Hiking Tours
  • Cultural Tours &
  • Safaris

You can also get in touch via phone on: +268 76020261 or email: info[at]swazitrails.co.sz

Hiking Sibebe Rock

This hike is NOT for the fainthearted. There is a “lesser” trail that isn’t as steep but it is still STEEP! We did the main very steep trail and it is doable but it isn’t easy.

I have ankles that don’t really bend so it was very hard for me. I had to do most of it on my tippy toes so I was absolutely knackered by the time I got to the top. The view is spectacular, but it is steep and for me was WAY more challenging to come down.

I was so glad I had done it with a reputable company (Swazi Trails). They were very good at getting most of our group to the top (not my challenge, I just tractored up) and immediately moved to my side when I must have looked really stressed about coming down. One of the guides went with the group ahead and one just stayed with me while I inched my way down. My knee does not like down and as I get tired from the constant bracing it gets a bit wobbly. The guide was amazing. He would ask me something once and then act on my answer.

For example, about one third of the way down he asked if I would like to stop, sit and rest. I said no because I didn’t want to cool off and he never asked again. Just slowly slowly walked a little in front and to the side of me and was always within arms reach.

Sibebe Rock Eswatini
Sibebe Rock Eswatini – A very steel climb

If you would like to book a hike up Sibebe, this tour on Get Your Guide is with local guides and runs often.

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The Benefit Of Doing A Tour Of Eswatini

While Eswatini is very easy to travel on your own, if you are coming from somewhere other than South Africa you might be better to do an overland tour that takes in Eswatini.

I was on a break from a longer overland trip I was doing so I joined into a month long South Africa, Eswatini and Lesotho trip with Nomad Africa. This 19 day tour that does South Africa, Lesotho and Eswatini is very similar to the one I did, just a bit shorter. Nomad Africa have some great tours and as they are a local South African company, you get the benefit of local experience, local guides and you know the money is staying in the area.

I do tend to book through Tour Radar as it gives me more confidence in knowing that if something happens before my tour starts, a larger company is going to go into bat for me. I had a few tours no go ahead during the pandemic a few years ago and it was so good knowing I could just get my money back and I didn’t have to try and get it from an international small business. Tour Radar were amazing and now I try to book multi day trips through them, Get Your Guide or Viator. I love that level of extra security.


Some Photos From Eswatini

Eswatini is very picturesque and these photos will give you an idea of what you will see from a landscape perspective.

Overall I loved this beautiful slice of nature and it’s one of the few places I would seriously consider going back to. I think mostly because I feel there was so much more to see and we only touched on a very small slice. If you are considering adding Eswatini to your destinations when you visit South Africa, I would encourage you strongly to do it. Its a beautiful country and very easy to get around.


Jenny Marsden - Charge The Globe
About the author

Meet Jenny, a passionate Australian travel blogger who has explored 103 countries to date. With over 30 years of travel experience, Jenny has a wealth of knowledge to share with her readers about the cultures, landscapes, and people she has encountered on her journeys. She’s always battling unfashionably frizzy hair and you will never catch Jenny in anything but comfortable shoes. Learn more about Jenny and her travels.